Tuesday, February 28, 2006

February 27th and 28th

First Official Day of Classes

I can't recall if I remembered to write it here, but last Friday the Uni has something called 'preliminary lectures'. This basically means that you get to run around campus trying to figure out where your lecture is being held, only to be informed at the preliminary lecture that you'll never have to set foot in that room again because the -official- room for the class is over in Building XYZ. You also learn about any required textbooks, and get to figure out who your lecturer (I was told they don't use the word 'professor' here unless the person is at the top of their department) is, so that when you're wandernig around lost next Monday you can hopefully recognize at least that much. Oh, and each lecture lasts for 15-30 minutes.
It was quite hectic for me...I had to wake up at 9am, go to the Geo preliminary lecture...which was a snore. Then I had a long wait, where I figured out that my Chinese Cinema class didn't even have a preliminary lecture. Off to Anthro, which was a much smaller class than Geo. Then it was off to Maori, which was at least vaguely interesting. With Anthro and Maori, the prelinary lecture was for all of the 200 or 100 level courses in those respective departments, so it was hard to get a good idea of who was in the class. Maori's class was so huge that it had to be divided up by the first letter of your surname...one half of the alphabet at one time.

But Monday was the official first day of classes. I had only Geography and Anthro on monday, and there's a big time gap between them. It's interesting to see how the demographics of the two classes are different -- I think I'm one of a handful of international students who are in the Geography class, whereas my Contemporary Pacific Cultures Class (Anthro) is mostly international students. Geography has mostly male students enrolled in it, and the class is well over 100, maybe even 200 students. I'm not used to classes being that large, and I'm not used to having to sit in the nosebleed section. Anthro, on the other hand, is about the size of the 'large lecture classes' I'm used to at Bryn Mawr -- about 30 to 40 students. Both of these classes were yet another 'welcome to course' introduction type lesson.
I spent most of my freetime yesterday attending class or catching up on my blog, so, well, no stunning pictures. Hence the picture I borrowed from the library's website. This library is absolutely amazing.

Tuesday's Geography class was our actual first lesson. The room was so insanely hot...I hope it's not always going to be like that. It's most likely from all of the warm bodies, though, so when people start skipping class I should be able to breathe easier. But what I found interesting was that the professor had taught in California for nearly a decade before coming back home to New Zealand. There was one instance where she was giving an example of a fox and a rabbit, trying to relate it to who knows what, and she stopped herself to apologize. New Zealand doesn't have foxes. It was interesting that she was apologizing for having lived and taught in the US.
Tuesday is my busiest day -- after Geography, I had another brief break which I spent in front of a computer, before I hustled to the top floor of the library to my Chinese Cinema class. This really was the first class for me in this particular subject, and I was excited. The room has no desks, it's just a video viewing room, and I'm a little scared because the professor wants to teach this as less of a 'Chinese culture' course and more of a film studies course. She was also having a hard time trying to get us to talk today...hopefully that will change. But I noticed another pattern -- she was explaining her background, how she was born in Italy but she went to college in China for several years, and then how she taught at the University of Chicago and got her PhD there. Then, much later in the lecture, she was talking about exams and she went on to apologize about her spelling. In New Zealand, they use British-based English, so 'realized' becomes 'realised' and so forth. She had apparently done something like that on an exam, and a student had circled it and wrote a nastey note about how she was in New Zealand, and they speak properly down here...and she asked us not to do the same. Now me, being the only American in the class (for once), I was vaguely amused. But the reaction of the students wasn't really one of amusement....the air in the room felt more like a 'damn right you better try to spell properly'.
We had to go around the room and introduce ourselves in that class. This is where I realized I'm the only American in the class...and the moment I opened my mouth to introduce myself people turned around in their chairs to have a look at me. It was an interesting feeling to be, even momentarily, the center of attention. It's also a good thing because I was beginning to get worried that I was only going to meet international students; hopefully I'll get to meet a bunch of Kiwis in this class.
After that there was the Maori class, but this was basically an opportunity for her to pass out a handout and tell us to check Blackboard. The class lasted about 15 minutes. Like the geography class, it's a huge class. Unlike the geography class, it's almost entirely international students.
Soon I'll be off for my last class of the day, Anthro. We'll see how that goes.

Monday, February 27, 2006

Sunday Feb 26 : Botanical Gardens










video of kids feeding ducks here

Saturday Feb 25






These are a handful of images because I'm too exhausted with having to wrestle with stupid blogger to really talk about them much. On Saturday, I went to the farmer's market as well as the big craft fair that was being held in the octagon. There's a sign of a concession stand, because I thought candy floss was a clear mark I was in a different culture. There's pottery, which this region is noted for. Then there's the cathedral, which is the center of town, and the back of a can of drink which I thought was rich with Kiwi pride. The drink itself was something like a ginger rootbeer.








Thursday February 23rd 2006 : Otago Peninsula Day Trip



Taiaroa Head


The International Office sponsored a day trip for all of the International Students, a day trip to the Otago Peninsula to take in some of the local natural wonders. I have a map, but I forgot to take a picture of it so I'll post it later. We visited Taiaro Head, which hosts an albatross colony. Otago is known for being the only place in New Zealand with a sucessful breeding program for the Royal Albatross. The Royal Albatross are the largest flying bird, or at least the largest sea bird. I think. Somebody should probably check me on that.


Do you remember the scene in Rescuers Down Under?
When the big dopey 'seagull' is going to land on the little Australian mouse's runway? The mouse is sitting there going through his bird guide, trying to figure out what an albatross is so he can figure out how to change the runway....and when he figures out the albatross is the HUGE BIRD in the middle of the guide that is 200 times larger than anything else? Yeah. They're really, really big. The Royal Albatross has a winspan of about 10 feet.



We didn't really get to see any, but it was fortunately windy enough that the birds did take flight occasionally. See, when you're that big, you want a big bout of wind to help you with take off. Unfortunately, most of them took flight when we had already gotten back on the bus...so I didn't get a good picture.



But the rest of the place was pretty. We got to see seals playing off shore. The problem with them is that the camera is so shakey because it was really, really, really windy.
(Working clockwise from noon: seagulls chilling in a little bit of a wind break; albatross hovering above the welcome center; seal waving his flipper at us; and a scenic picture of Taiaroa Head)







Sandfly Bay? ... that can't be right

I can't remember the name of this beach. In any case, it was where we saw seal close up. We weren't there for very long, however. With many of these little points of interest that we went to, it would take 50%-75% of our time to simply trek through whatever farmland was surrounding the beach to get to the shore. It was also raining for the majority of the time we were there -- which dramatically cuts down on the amount of time I felt like frolicking around and taking pictures.



Like I said, we got to see a seal close up at this beach. I'm pretty sure it's just a plain old fur seal. There was no evidence of a pup or anything -- in fact, the seal was pretty much interested in sleeping. Some people got within what I'd like to call 'petting' distance. They didn't touch the seal, but they were within an arm's length.
(Working my way down from the top: Me, demonstrating how windy it was; a scenic picture of the beach; a fur seal snoozing his way through the day behind some boulders and some of the students getting close to said aforementioned seal)

Besides the constant wind and on and off rainfall, the only other thing of import about this beach was the penguin nests. The penguin 'nests' (boxes, really) are put up by the park to encourage the penguins to mate and procreate and all that good stuff. The adults were off fishing for the day when we visited, so we got the chance to look at the nests upclose. The problem was that the baby penguins were hiding back in the boxes -- see, what you're actually seeing in these pictures is just the doorway. Hidden away under rocks and tarp was a much, much larger box that would easily host multiple adult penguins. In any case, the baby penguins were difficult to see (some people couldn't see them at all) and only distinguished based on their white bits. I increased the contrast on one of the images so you could more easily see the penguins. (nest to the left, improved contrast to the right)



Along the Way
As we were tootling around on the bus, we saw lots of things on the side of the road. Mostly sheep. Lots of sheep. Some cows. And the occasional black swan. We also stopped at one point to admire the Maori Meeting House for the region. I could only get a good shot of the gate, though.
Hopefully I'll get to learn more about the Maori and even visit their meeting house as I continue with my classes. I love the colors they use, though. Just...wow.



Sandymount

Sandymount was our last stop before the dinner bbq, and wow. Was it a wonderful stop. I would have loved to spend more time there, and not simply because the walking to and from the beach took up 40 of our 45 minutes. It was out in the middle of farmland, but you could just tell how the weather was affecting the environment -- the trees, even before we got to the beach, were all bent over from prolonged exposure to the elements. And this was at the top of the cliff. Down at the bottom, the wind was blowing so hard I thought we were going to loose some of the smaller people in our group. It was amazing that the sheep that were in the uphill pastures didn't blow away.
Beyond that, it was an absolutely stunning beach. Just hard to get to and from... the cliff that we had to climb down was really steep. The way back up nearly killed me.

Omitted Part of Tuesday Feb 21st





I completely forgot this aspect of Tuesday. As a part of O-Week, the freshmen from all of the halls all over the university dress in togas for a big toga party. But it's not just a toga party -- they've taken an aspect of Greek life (they don't have, as far as I can defer, frats here) and run with it.
Quite literally, I mean. They run/walk down the streets, wearing togas. They go down George street towards the Octagon, where the Mayor of Dunedin gives them a greeting, and then they proceed to a movie screening and a concert (with booze!) in their honor.

....But I'll let the pictures do the talking now.
















More Backdated Entries

Tuesday February 21: Orientation Week

The University of Otago begins every school year with this w
onderful tradition called Orientation Week, or O-Week, or the Big-O. The theme for this year is the Hitchhikers Guide to Orientation (like the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy). In layman's terms, this all translates into having large tents up on campus for various vendors (such as the military, local Christian groups, banks, and power drinks), and lots of parties. Lots of parties. Lots of drunks.


One of the highlights to this day was the sausages and Jello Wrestling. The sausages are apparently something that Dunedin really loves -- they're big franks made of mystery meet, but delicious. I'll take a picture of the next one I consume... but many of the clubs (particularly the Pacific Islanders club and the Maori club) were giving them out for free. They are typically served on buttered bread (of course), with tomato sauce (ketchup) and BBQ sauce, with onions. Tastey!
Aaah, but not as tastey as the Jello Wrestling contest. Sponsored by V, the local energy drink, they got a bunch of first years to wrestle each other in a big baby pool filled with frothy jello. I video taped a good part of it. The best part was at the end, though, when the two winners had to face off. But not in jello -- they were blindfolded and given fresh lamb carcasses to rummage through. They would call out the name of an orange (like 'tongue') and they would have to try to find it. I think the boy ended up winning, but it was interesting in that 'makes you feel icky just to think about it' kinda way.



Wednesday February 22: Int
ernational Student Welcome

Maori welcome, and basic orientation stuff. The Maori welcome was my favoriate part, since I just got to revel in the language and admire its twists and turns...while, of course, not understanding a word. I'll never be a linguistical anthropologist, but that doesn't mean I can't admire language and communication. I just wish I had more of a head for learning languages.
Beyond that, I sat next to Andrew (from Swarthmore) and we traded ethnocentric jibes at New Zealand's history. Like how they misplaced moose. (His comment was something to the effect of 'put a salt lick in the middle of the forest, and you will get your moose soon enough').
But the history was quite fascinating, and although brief, it was very informative. I can't obviously put it all on here...but suffice it to say that NZ is a beautiful country, and diverse not only in its environment but also its cultural heritage. As I learn more about the history from my book, I'll try to put my thoughts on here.

In the evening, I went to the International Students Party at some local pub. It was my first time in a bar, and it was awful. Too many people in a very, very small space with bad alcohol and music that was too loud you had to scream to be heard by the person standing next to you. Not exactly the best mixer ever. But I did meet another person from my school there, and got to meet a bunch of her friends (Americans and Germans, mostly). it's all good.

Course Approval

Feb 20th, 2006 (another backdated entry)
They write the date differently down here. So instead of writing it 02/20/06 (or 2006), it's 20-02-06.

Course approval. Wrote a big rant about it in live journal. Basically it was hell.
I woke up at a marvelous 5am. I had gone to sleep around midnight, but I'm still jetlagged so my body was all like: 'Hmm. 5am is a good time to wake up. What, four-five hours of sleep? Pft, we can handle it!'
A few hours later, around 7am, I heard a tap at our front door. A girl from flat G came over (name rhymes with Cinnamon) asking for her breakfast. Apparently, all of the other flats were well aware of the fact that they were supposed to get breakfast at our Flat. I had seen the delivery truck earlier, but just had assumed that the delivery had gone to the RAs, whose flats face the same car parking lot. A brief walk outside, and we discovered that the bread and milk were actually in the little guard house that's connected to our flat.
But the door was locked, and my key didn't work. A brief walk down to Cumberland Hall (by myself -- the girl went off to get ready for the day), and I had to track down someone who had the key to that door. Hopefully they'll leave it ajar, since none of us have a key that'll open that door.

Then... Course Approval!
Course approval is a new level of hell. The purpose of course approval as I understand it is to let you meet the professors, and actually talk to the departments you plan to take classes from in the year so that you know if you want to take the class or if you can take that class.
I had to go the International Students Welcome Desk to find out where the international students were supposed to go in order to get their official course listings and the necessary forms to . Then I had to stand in line forever, just to learn I needed to stand in a different line to sort out my medical insurance before I could even get the list of courses that I'm signed up for. They copied my passport, made me sign up for medical insurance, and then (after an hour and a half) I got my classes.
Fantastic. Apparently I was signed up for 2:4 classes that I shouldn't have been signed up for -- an advanced surveying course and an advanced geology course. I've taken...one geoarchaeology class, and, thus, I'm not capable of taking those classes. Then I had to figure out what building and what room those courses were in. First to get my anthro and Moari classes approved, which took no time at all, then off to go get my surveying and geology courses fixed.
If I thought the international students line took a while, then the surveying line lasted an eternity. What made it more awkward was that everyone around me was about 6'3" hulks of manflesh. The beachbums that actually work out. (And, again, many of them were barefoot). It was a little unnerving, being the only girl standing in that kind of line, and being unable to converse to them about anything since, well, I didn't know much about surveying except for transects. The prof who signed me off for surveying was nice, though, and definitely wanted to talk to me to make up for the amount of time I spent in line. He even helped me figure out that I could take geography classes, and which ones would work into my schedule.
Hustled off to the geography line, and, again, waited in line forever. It was well past 1pm, and I hadn't had lunch. But I did get to stand in line next to a grad student from China who was very nice. I think she was from near Beijing, but not sure. She was really nice, an environmental studies student, and we talked about being international students. The Kiwi fellows standing in front of us tried to ignore us -- in the line next to me was a bloke from Oberlin, though, and we exchanged some small talk.
I ended up signing up for the geography 101 class. This should be able to count towards my geoarchaeology concentration, and it takes care of my science credit.
I needed to sign up for a fourth class, though, since now I was down to three. So I hustled back to sign up for some Japanese courses...only to discover that most of them weren't offered this semester, or conflicted with my other classes. So I ended up signing up for the Chinese Cinema class -- I get the impression, from the sheer joy that there was a student signing up for one of his classes, that the Chinese department is not as popular as the Japanese department. Standing in line, though, I noticed that Spanish was also not popular...French was the most popular foreign language people were signing up for. German/European studies was also not popular at all.
Then I had to go figure out where I needed to go in order for someone to enter my courses into a computer (which I could have done myself) and then I had to go stand in line for my id. Which looks like craaap. Not the id, my picture. The ID itself is like 100 times better than the BMC ID. It has your email address on it, your user id, and a nice background picture. It also apparently doubles as your print card, meaning you can put money on it to pay for print jobs.
I took the library tour, and I think I may be in love with the Central Library. I'll need to post pictures of its beauty.

I’m trying hard to be a bit more of a social butterfly than I am, typically. It’s really difficult though.
After getting a really big sub (lamb with tomato basil and garlic mayo and cheese -- yum!) at some diner that‘s across the street from the information center, went over with Ruth to visit some German fellows. Yahn has really curly hair, and wears glasses, whereas F is tall and brunette. They're both very nice, with Yahn definitely being more extroverted and comfortable with the English language, and the most eager to pick my brains.
We played pool, and I completely embarrassed myself. I’m really, really bad at pool, and they were all really good. But I haven't had much of an opportunity to go to bars or play pool. Well, I suppose I've had the opportunity, but it definitely wasn't the focus of my home university. This whole 'party' atmosphere is something as alien to me as the local accent.
Speaking of accents: Sarcasm does not translate well. They don't teach it in English class. It's also the base of my generation's sense of humor, and thus, since I try to be humorous, it definitely is making for a gap in the translation for the Germans. It’s enough that I’m trying to adjust to the Kiwi culture, but I’m also trying to adjust to the studying abroad German culture.

Speaking of Kiwi culture, today I observed what is one of the Orientation week traditions. Couch burning.
This basically entails a bunch of flat people getting together. With the liberal application of alcohol (typically beer) to their insides, they heft a piece of furniture (namely a couch) out to the street and set it on fire. Then, they and all of their neighbors gather outside. Some of the men folk will frolick around the piece of flaming furniture (we saw one guy trying to leap near one side of it and he fell -- wasn’t hurt, though). They then time to see how long it takes for the fire truck to arrive.
3 minutes.
The fire truck arrives, and the firemen climb out. They look grumpy, with the sort of look on their faces that seemed to express that they knew this was just a stupid prank, that it would continue to happy frequently for the rest of the week, that they were sick and tired, and all they wanted to do was put out the damn fire and be off with their business.
While they are grumpily dousing the fire, the college students are gathered around cheering them on. This surprised me. One would think that there would be at least an ‘aw’ or two of disappointment that the flame was going out. However, the opposite was true. It seemed almost as if the fire were a lure to pull out the poor firemen. Or maybe the students just wanted to demonstrate that, although they were partaking in deviant behavior, they still had respect for the establishment.
I didn’t get a chance to really ask them about it. The fire was put out, and the fire truck was backed away while the crowd filtered away at a leisurely pace. The firemen did not even talk to the college students, just glared at them sourly as they got in and out of the vehicle and put out the flame. There were no fines, no punishment, just putting out the fire.
Odd.

February 19th

So this whole 'lack of internet' in my room is starting to get vaguely annoying. I'll just have to get onto myself and make sure I make a blog post daily.

Backdated:

Feb 19

The only thing worse than just jet lag is suffering from sleep deprivation and jet lag. I was told that the best way to handle this, however, was to get out and about and make sure you were exposed to the sun. Something about seeing the sun outside is supposed to trigger your body into a normal cycle or something.

So to that extent, I decided to go shopping for some necessary items. Such as a good pillow. Linens were provided by the school, but the pillow I got was so lumpy I'm vaguely concerned that there's something nesting in it. My flat is located right near Great King St North, which is just one street over from George Street, which is the main street in Dunedin. I followed that street, and discovered that I was not too far away from some American store chains. Like Pizza Hut, Blockbuster, and Kmart. The Kmart is in the largest mall in the area, which consists of about 15 different stores...well, probably not, but the mall is small. Got myself a pillow, sunglasses, some bowls, etc.

But before I made it to Kmart, I had a little bit of culture shock. There I was, standing in a stationary store at some planners (or rather, 'diaries') when I happened to look at the bloke standing beside me. He was short (about my height), dressed like a surfer (as almost everyone in this city is), but that wasn't what got my attention.

He wasn't wearing any shoes. And let me tell you, hobbit feet do exist in New Zealand.

I began to notice that many of the men didn't wear shoes. It seemed to mostly be the 18-25 age set, and all of them looked like surfers. But it's not just the white-ethnicity; I have also seen Asian and Pacific Islander Kiwis going down the street not wearing shoes. Next time I'll have to snap a picture. Is this part of their expression that summer is still here, or is it a 'surfer' or 'athletic' thing? Or just them being lazy?

It's definitely very casual down here.

Around noon, headed home after consuming a chicken and butter and mayo sammich, and a jaffa milk shake. Not sure what a jaffa is exactly beyond being a candy, but it was definitely sweet. It's interesting...but all of the sammichs here seem to have butter on them.

After that, went out with my German (Ruth) for a while. She seems homesick; she's been here I think a day longer than I am. What's interesting about our interactions is that, obviously, she's forced to speak in English since I don't speak any German. This means that not only is she jetlagged, but also having to think in a foreign language most of the time. But my reaction is also very interesting. Instead of speaking as I normally would, I've noticed that I'm trying to keep my phrases short, and very simple, almost miming the way she talks. I'm not doing it consciously, either, it's just something I've noticed myself doing.

We went to town to Blockbuster (rented 'Scrubs, the First Season' and 'Bride and Prejudice'), shoe stores, and the cellphone companies. Thinking about getting the vodafone deal. Dinner was catonese? I’m not sure. Big bowl of soup. There are lots of Asian-based stores in the area, particularly noodle shops and Thai places. There are also a few curry shops. All of these are on George Street, and they're all clustered together. You'd think that'd be bad for business...

To end my rather dull and boring day, I went to bed early once again to the sound (again) of people partying a few flats over. It’s almost midnight, and they kept me up for a while until I whipped out the book on New Zealand history that I purchased today at the bookstore.

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Differences Between US and NZ Universities, Take I

Cumberland Hall (February 18th)
My first day hadn't yet come to a close, but I feel that I need to make a separate post to explain the differences between the organization of living quarters at New Zealand as opposed to my home university.
At Bryn Mawr college, almost everyone lives in the dorms. The way it works is that freshman year, you are assigned a dorm with the rest of the freshmen class. Most freshmen live in multiple occupancy rooms, but a good portion of them also have singles. The living space is generally small, particularly in comparison to the upperclasswomen rooms. You are put into what we call a 'Customs Group', and under-go orientation, called 'Customs Week', which is actually not a week but just a few days, but takes place before everyone else arrives on campus.
At the end of the year, you are given a lottery number. Your lottery number corresponds to the order in which you get to pick your room within your class. When the dorm lottery comes around, rising seniors get to select their rooms first, followed by rising juniors, then rising sophomores. There are a few special houses (such as the Vegan House) that you can apply to get into, and some people decide to rent an apartment somewhere, but for the most part, you live in a dorm. After freshman year, you will also generally live in a single.
In New Zealand, things are different. Freshmen are still assigned housing, yes. But instead of dorms, the dormitories are called Halls or even Colleges. After freshman year, students either apply (yes, you have to apply to get into a specific dormitory) to live in a Hall/College, or they 'flat'. My impression is that the vast, vast majority of Kiwis at the University of Otago decide to flat. Flatting can be done through the school, but for the most part, you rent a flat from someone and share it with your mates.
Most international students also flat. Like me.
As such, many things are different. If there is a dining hall, I don't know where it is on campus. Food is generally gotten from the grocery store or from a fast food place. We have a kitchen, which comes complete with all sorts of delicious cooking supplies. Because I'm flatting through the college, we are also supplied a weekly or bi-weekly allotment of bread, milk, butter, cereal, and so forth.
Like a freshman, I didn't get to select my flatmates. They were assigned. Last year, apparently, the majority of people flatting in Cumberland Court were Kiwis, but this year, they're mostly international students. Cumberland Court is associated with Cumberland Hall, a dorm, and they take care of us pretty well and assigned us to our flats. Like in the dorms at home, I have a closet, a dresser drawer, and a desk. The linens were also supplied. I have no internet in my room.
I'm in a small flat. It actually wasn't even a flat until this year, and it still has a sign dennoting it as 'Manager Services' to this day. There are two people other than myself living here, each with our own bedrooms. My flatmates are a Kiwi, who was born in Tawain, and German. They're both nice. We have a common room where we can watch about 9 different channels of TV on, and the Kiwi brought a DVD player which we can us.

Now to return to my first day adventures.

----
I took about an hour nap, but beyond that, I have only unpacked and gone to the grocery store. The grocery store was entirely too draining, and I think it is really what killed my energy, and really smacked me with culture shock. First of all, I couldn’t figure out how to get into the bloody store. (It turned out my instinct was right, but the entrance seriously looked like the exit) Then I was searching for things that I knew I could eat. It was difficult enough walking to the place and having to deal, in my sleep-deprived world, with all of the visual stimuli that was not ‘quite right’. But then I had to deal with all of the things that should have been familiar and just…simply weren’t.
This isn’t to say that I’m homesick. I think that will come later. Just right now my brain is too tired to adjust. It’s like I’m looking through a pair of glasses that isn’t my prescription. It makes me feel wobbly…although that could be the sleep deprivation, and all the walking and running around. It also doesn’t help that I have to listen real hard to understand what people are saying. It’s not that I can’t understand. The New Zealand accent is, surprisingly, very American. But, like looking at all the food labels and recognizing -what- something is without it being what I’m used to, it’s just a bit off.
I went to bed early (8pm), after taking a shower. I was exhausted.

Travel to New Zealand

Internet access is hard to get to here at the university, so I'm attempting to go through and backdate a few of my experiences.
I have a private journal, where I can record my private fears and whatnot, so this journal will service as a more public, ethnographic blog. So if it sounds like I'm speaking fairly formally, it's only because I have no idea who might be reading this particular blog. But even in an ethnography, you can't keep the person writing out of the picture.
So this is how my journey to Kiwiland began.

I couldn’t sleep in the day of my flight. I woke up at least two hours before the alarm was set to go off, after having gone to bed later than I should have. I figured that I'd make up the sleep on the flight (or one of them, at least) and that it wouldn’t be a big deal. In fact, I kept on congratulating myself mentally because, if I timed it right on the trip over the Pacific, I would manage to fall asleep and get closer to in step with local New Zealand time.
But I was awake, so I showered, finished packing, dealt with my nervous parents, got traveler’s checks, kissed my dog goodbye and went to the airport.
Checking in was relatively uneventful, except that I had over packed by five pounds in each suitcase. It was a surprise, because I thought (and still think) I hadn’t packed anything excessive. In my checked luggage, there were two weeks worth of shirts and one weeks worth of pants, a sleeping bag for all the tramping I planned to do (I intend to ship it back when I head home), towels and tolietries, two rolls of toliet paper (I didn't know how much we'd have to fend for ourselves in the flat I was going to be staying in), an external hardrive, electrical converters, two cd cases, my tablet, a roll of duct tape, shoes, and an alarm clock. For carrying on, I brought my laptop computer and the necessary accessories, three books on New Zealand, a book of sudoku, a jacket, my camera and plenty of medication to keep me pain free and sleepy.
But mostly I was confused because I had been told that the luggage could be 70lbs, but not that you had to pay extra if it was above 50lbs. Thank you United Airlines.
Moving along, I dwadled around before going through security in an effort to spend some extra time with my parents. However, it's the custom of my parents to make me more nervous than necessary. My father was acting nonchalant, not putting on so much as a tough veneer so much as trying to behave in a levelheaded manner. He took pictures of my mother and I, and myself and him, on his new camera cellphone. My mother was doing her best not to act nervous, and only ended up coming across as even more apprehensive than if she had been pulling out her hair. I finally bit the bullet and went on through security.

Airports
Most people complain about going through security in this post-911 world, saying it's hell. I disagree. The only thing that post-911 has given us is the occasional random selection, better x-ray machines and the need to take off our shoes. Now, I completely believe that going through airport security after the advent of mobile electronics is hell. I can remember the day when all you had to do was put your backpack on the belt, take your change out of your pockets and troddle through. Now you have to unpack your laptop and camera, put all of your items into little plastic bins. You have to wait while people remember to pull out their cellphones, blackberries and other personal electronics out of their pockets. Then you have to reassemble everything.
To compound this, there is always these feeling that you need to rush. You could be one of three people trying go through security, but there is always this pressing need for you to try to hurry otherwise Something Bad Will Happen. Maybe the very act of going through security, of having yourself picked apart is what gives this mentality.
While taking the shuttle over to the other terminal (since I was flying out of Dulles, the old terminal now only really serves as a check in point, and you have to shuffle yourself off to the other side of the airport to where the -real- terminals are), I noticed myself being watched by the two people who had small children while I vainly tried to reassemble myself after being turned inside out by security. One was a mother with a pre-teen girl, the other was a woman with a small boy. The pre-teen child seemed vaguely curious about me when I took out one of the New Zealand books, but beyond that, I assume they were watching me because I wasn’t a business traveler and thus it was not intrinsically obvious as to where I was going and who I was.
Which brings me to something else. For my traveling attire, I was wearing the Swarthmore Academics t-shirt. I wore it because it was comfortable. But I also wanted to identify myself as a college student to any who looked at me, or at least a student of some variety, while at the same time preserving my actual identity as a Bryn Mawr student. I was also wearing my big baggy boy cargo pants, because I wanted something loose with big pockets. The overall image was crunchy, or comfortable, but definitely not ‘sexy' or 'woman'. Perhaps that’s why the women stared. But I don't understand the mentality of going on a long plane flight dressed to the nines. Who expects you to get off the plane looking your best? I have no problem advertising my intellect on my sleeve, but not my sexuality.
I twiddled my thumbs in the terminal, since I had about two hours before my flight was due to leave. I really should have gone to the gate first thing to get my seat assignment, but instead I wandered around, like a packed mule since my backpack was so heavy. While eating some Wendy’s, I tried some of that new ‘airborne’ defense supplement, and worked on some suduko. I came to the conclusion that the airborne is nothing more than a fizzy vitamin (you dissolve it in water), and I fail at suduko.
On the plane, I sat next to a fellow from the Army. I didn’t talk to him very much, but I made the attempt to start conversation when I noticed he was reading ‘Dragon’s Winter’, which is in my humble opinion a fairly nice book. It was a weak effort, met with a weak response. He slept for most of the flight, in any case, as did the fellow next to him. When I had just about given up and had turned on my iPod, he and the other fellow woke up and began chatting. It was interesting, because I could have told you without having to ask him that the fellow was in the Army. He had the same pride in himself, the same airs, that everyone I have ever met from a military organization has. He was Important. I gathered he was a parachuter of some variety, and he had been in Iraq when they had stormed Saddam’s castle. When he was telling the other guy about this historic event, what I found most remarkable was that the other guy didn’t seem at all interested. Instead, he turned the subject over to what Army Boy had gone to school, or how he had proposed to his fiancé. I was sitting here trying to pretend like I wasn’t eavesdropping on their conversation, and wanting to smack the other fellow for not being interested in history in the making.
Otherwise the trip was a dull six hour flight. There was a strong head wind, which made it a little shakey and a little longer than it should have been. Makes me sick just thinking about how rattely that flight was.
Until I got to Auckland, I thought that LAX was the worst airport in the world. I hate it. I hate it with a fiery burning passion. I got off of my plane, and went to the departure schedule. It instructed me to get to Terminal 2. Okay, but how? I wandered around, found a currency exchange place (none of the places in DC, and I had gone to -five- exchange stations, had NZ dollars). I asked for NZ dollars, and the person behind the counter gave me not only that but, without me having to ask, told me how to get to my gate. She even wrote it down on the back of a piece of paper, to make sure I got there alright. To that person, you made my day. Thank you.
In order to get to my terminal, I had to jump on a bus and trolley over there. On this bus, I met a group of ladies (some elderly, some around 40’s) going on the Holland Cruise. Which just happened to mean that they were on the same flight as I was. This turned out to be an insanely Good Thing. For one thing, the ladies, because they were going on a cruise, not only wanted to get to their gate -now-, but also wanted to have a good spirit about it. They took me under their wing as we ran around trying to figure out where the New Zealand check in counter was, then figured out whether we needed to stand in that line or this line (and it turned out we didn’t need to stand in any line and the snarky LAX fellow told us to beat it). We flounced through security (again) and then up to our gate. I was *this* close to getting food and using the restroom, but decided against it since we barely made it at the terminal by 7:00pm and our flight was supposed to leave at 7:40pm.
It ended up boarding at 7:40pm. For that, LAX, I hate you.
While boarding the plane, I ended up chatting with some girl in front of me in line who I mistook as a study abroad student. She ended up not only not being a student, but being a married mother with two children who was going to go backpacking around New Zealand with her father. I hope she was flattered that I mistook her for someone my age.
For the 13 hours of Hell, aka the flight from LAX to Auckland, I was seated between two delightful women. At first I was a little upset since I thought I had gotten an aisle seat, and instead I not only had a middle seat but had no room for my backpack at my feet (and consequently easy access to my entertainment). This mood didn’t last for too long, however, because the lady to my right (who I shall call MotherHen) would simply not allow it. She was another one of these people traveling for the cruise, and she was in an incredibly good mood. Her husband was seated across the aisle (we were in the middle section), and he was quiet most of the time, although he occasionally piped in something or other. In any event, MotherHen was a delight to sit next to. She told me all about her previous visit to New Zealand, recommended which wine I should consume, and also allowed me to show her how to use the in flight entertainment. MotherHen was also convinced that we were going to get sprayed down when we landed in New Zealand, to that we didn’t contaminate the country. She was definitely a bit of a conspiracy theorist. We talked a lot about things I can't remember now, and she was a pleasure.
The lady to my left was also as interesting. Around the same age (meaning, 60 or 70 -- it’s hard for me to guess ages), and spry, she had been on the same plane since boarding in London. She was from Scotland, and was also traveling with her husband, but for her it was just a chance to see New Zealand for a month or so. She didn’t talk nearly as much as MotherHen, but she was very witty and goodnatured about my clumsy nature (I accidentally landed a hiking boot on her foot, for instance). Her husband never spoke to me at all.
I didn’t get to spend my time on the plane as I had wanted. I didn’t sleep at all coming over from D.C., so I thought now would be a marvelous time to catch up on some sleep. The plane thought otherwise. Our section was hot. And when I say hot, I mean that while in other parts of the plane they needed the blankets the airline supplied, we needed someone to give us a pair of shorts.
To make this worse, I cannot sleep in the heat, it doesn’t matter how much I want to. I need to be cold. I had almost gotten over this little issue however with the help of Mr. White Wine (times 2! A cup of rizon and a cup of chardonnay), and I think I dozed off for thirty minutes. Then the little kid sitting behind me decided I was a pinatta. I ended up smacking the back of my chair (probably when she had been reaching up to hit it again), and she stopped. I think her parents wanted to kill me however. In any case, I had sobered up but I didn’t want to risk mixing sleepy drugs with alcohol so I was doomed to an existence of wandering around the plane.
I discovered that our section of the plane was the only one that was hot. Everywhere else was deliciously cold. I was jealous, so I spent much time in the back of the plane ’stretching my legs’ and listening to my iPod. I made casual conversation with ladies in the back who were actually stretching their legs.
Casual conversation is the travelers best friend. It gets you human contact without the necessary privacy baggage. You don’t have to worry about whether you’re pushing the envelope as you bond with fellow passengers over your shared misery. Occasionally, you’ll give out information about yourself, such as how many times you’ve flown to such and such a place or something about your favorite movie or your opinion on the inflight entertainment. You will talk about what you are (a student, anthro major who goes to Bryn Mawr), if it’s relevant to the casual conversation topic. But overall, you are simply bonding in your misery.
The in-flight entertainment of New Zealand Air, by the way, beats United. You can choose whatever movie you want to watch (as opposed to the movies operating like a TV station, with a set schedule). You can play games. Shanghai and me got very comfortable with each other. I just wish the AC hadn’t been so bad.
All total, I was awake for 11.5 out of 13 of those hours. I managed to catch a few winks before they served breakfast, mostly because I walked myself to exhaustion and stuffed some instrumental radio station over my ears to force me to sleep. It was not what one could call a restful sleep.
And then we got to New Zealand.
New Zealand’s customs is the most stringent customs program I have ever gone through. Not the form itself, but the actual process. The line was not nearly as efficient as Tokyo airport’s was. Where the Japanese thrive on effeciency and this impression is given to you the moment you step off of the plane, the first impression I got of the Kiwis was that they didn't want me through their door and weren't to be bothered about making my time in their airport any easier than they had to. They were obsessed with ensuring that you did not bring food into the country, or any foreign soil (such as you might pick up hiking around in the woods).
This was much to my misfortune because, after having stood in line for 30 minutes, which left me about an hour to get to my flight, I was confronted by the drug detecting dog. Except in New Zealand, this is not just a drug detecting dog. This dog is also specially trained to sniff out food.
I had to stop waiting for my luggage on the carol (why yes, in New Zealand, they do not automatically send your bags off to your next flight -- you have to get them yourself so they can be inspected, and then recheck them), and let the security guard go through my luggage. She continually asked me whether or not I had brought food. I explained that no, I had not brought food, because I knew that food was not permitted in the country. I wanted to point out that I had a dog, and her dog was probably smelling my dog, but I didn’t want to get snarky. I was depending on this person to just go away and leave me alone, so I could get to my gate. Instead, I had to explain that I had had an orange in there about three weeks ago (which had gotten squashed), and I oftened -had- carried food in the backpack, but none for this trip. I had cleaned out the bag.
She didn’t find any food, but she wrote on my arrival pass that she had inspected my bags and they had been okay’d.
Then I had to spend another 10 minutes getting my bags and figuring out where I needed to go, only to be confronted by the next line of security.
I had to hand over my arrival pass once more to the customs people, and this is where I wanted to scream. On the pass, it asked you to declare if you had any camping equipment with you. One of the items that was specifically mentioned was hiking boots. Since I was wearing hiking boots, I figured it would only be to my advantage to say ‘yes’, I did -indeed- having hiking boots. I just hadn’t gone hiking in them for over a year.
The customs person was aghast. She had to inspect my boots, and quiz me on my activities. Wouldn’t it have sucked if I was an avid hiker, and had come specifically to New Zealand with my trusty equipment to partake in their muchly advertised high adventure sports and amazing hiking trails? Fortunately there was not a lick of soil on my shoes, so she got to move on to my other issue. The canine cop.
Did I have fruit? No. Was I sure? Yes, I knew the rules, I had not brought -any- food with me. Was I sure? Did I have fruit? When was the last time I had fruit? Okay, well, if I was suuuuuuuuuuure, then I could go on to yet another x-ray machine. Which took up even more time.
Then I had to dash off to get checked in, only to be told I did not have enough time to check my luggage, that I had to -run- to catch the bus that was going to take me to the terminal for domestic flights, which was of course not in the same terminal I was standing in. I was assured that I could take my bags straight to the plane.
The bus ended up having no more room, but assured us that it was going to be back in a 10 minutes. I had 35 minutes to get to my gate. It showed up with just enough time for me to have 25 mintues to get to my gate.
I get there, and stand in line for security...only to be yelled at that I had to go check my bags before going through security. Yes, I realize that that is only purely logical, but I had been told that I just needed to take my bags to the gate. Meanwhile, I am panicking because over the loud speaker they are announcing that my plane is leaving.
I run over to the Air New Zealand counter and go straight to the desk. Do not stand in line, do not catch your breath. The lady checked me in (complaining about how heavy my suitcases were), gave me my boarding pass (after some confusion on what ticket she was asking me to give her), and I ran off to security. Well, since I had cut the other long line, I did my -best- Dumb American accent and, like, begged and like pleaded for people to pllllllease let me through because my flight was being called. I got through, ran up the steps, and got through my gate. There was one last bit of panic when I couldn’t find my passport (which ended up being in one deep boy pocket)…but in the end, I vowed to hate Auckland Airport more than LAX from now on.
On the flight from Auckland to Dunedin was a splendidly scenic 2 hours. This country is -gorgeous-. I saw an actual volancoe! And I got to sit next to some nice Otago student (Raymond, who was traveling with his friend Syndney, who was very sick the entire flight over) who was gracious enough to listen to my sleep-deprived babbling. I tend to get really talkative in that condition.

Dunedin

The shuttle was there to pick me and a few other people up, and we had to wait for another flight to come in. In the meantime, we had time to get food, in which case I experienced my first Kiwi-made food. The sammich was perfectly normal, except for the roasted tomatoes (instead of fresh) and, instead of mayo, they liberally apply butter to all forms of bread. The bubbly juice is quite delicious, however.
The shuttle took us on a trip through Dunedin to get to Cumberland Hall, our first stop and my last stop. On the way over there, we passed multiple farms. I am used to seeing farmland, but the farmland here is different. I think it's because, what I saw of it, the farmland is not as diverse as it is in the parts of the US I'm used to seeing. What I mean to say is, that instead of passing some cornfields, cows, horses, all we passed were sheep. I think there was the occasional horse field, and maybe some cows, but no crops. 90% of the farmland was for sheep.
This is just describing the area around the airport. You see, Dunedin airport is fairly small airport located out in the middle of the farmlands. But it's not exactly a great distance away from town. I would say that we were at Cumberland Hall within 30 to 40 minutes. I had several first impressions.
For one thing, I realized that no matter how many times I go to a country where they drive on the 'wrong side' of the road, it will always strike me as odd and take some getting used to. I wonder if this would be the case if I didn't drive. But it's more than that. The street signs are different, the roads are lined with a different thickness of paint, and the cars are not in the style I'm used to seeing. The millions of little visual stimulus that I am used to overlooking because they're all 'the same', from the liscence plates to the road signs, are definitely off when you first get into any country.
More specifically, my first impression of Dunedin was 'not what I was expecting', although I was rather expecting that. I had pictured it as having...well, more of a city feel. But it felt like the outskirts of a city. There are no skyscrappers, there is not distinctive 'business' district in the way I'm used to seeing it. It felt like a little town, an old, slightly rundown town. A seaside town -- the beach is within easy distance of the University of Otago, where I'm studying. Instead of pigeons they have seagulls. The flora is some weird combination of temperate and tropical. This could be typical of seaside towns, I have no way of knowing, but it was definitely something I was going to have to take my time getting my mind wrapped around.
There are definitely some things I'm going to have to investigate further. Like, how close is the beach -really-? When can I get into the Cadbury factory? And is that a brewery I smell?

Friday, February 17, 2006

Last Post State-Side

Now is as good a time as any to record what I know of New Zealand before I actually set foot on New Zealand's soil. Or, more accurately, now is the last time I get such a chance. One of the vital characteristics of a good ethnography is knowing where the ethnographer comes from, what their background is, and thus what their bias is. For that purpose, and so I can laugh at myself later, I will write.

What I Knew About New Zealand
Finding information on New Zealand was a task I found to be quite difficult. Surprisingly so, actually, since I never particularly thought of New Zealand as an elusive country. Granted, when my quest for knowledge began, I didn't know much about New Zealand. The reason for me choosing to go abroad there were few: I wanted to go somewhere in the Pacific. I've been to Japan and China before, but I don't speak either language and thus I couldn't go study there for a semester. So I looked farther south to the English speaking Australia and New Zealand. The University of Otago had a painless application process, meaning no teacher recommendations required, so I applied and was accepted.
Being accepted put me in a pickel. I could summarize what I knew of New Zealand in the palm of my hand. I knew that many motion pictures and tv shows were filmed in New Zealand, more specifically Xena, the Lord of the Rings trilogy, and recently King Kong. I knew it was an island, and, unlike many Americans, I knew it was not a part of Australia. There was a particularly awkward moment in my Geoarchaeology class last semester... this class was team taught, and one of the profs was Australian. After I telling the American-prof about my plans to study abroad in New Zealand, he encouraged me to go and speak with the Australian prof to see if he had any friends over there. I knew this was much like asking a Canadian if they had a pal in Texas, but the Australian prof was gracious enough to just politely decline knowing anyone in New Zealand.
What else did I know? I think I knew that kiwis (the bird) were from New Zealand. I thought the island (yes, 'the island') was colonized by Britain, much like Australia was. I also remembered something vaguely about penguins. I learned quickly, before I even had a chance to research, that rugby was very important down there because the moment I told one of my friends that I was going to New Zealand she, a rugby player, started going on and on about some team called the 'All Backs'.
Yes, I realize that if you are even remotely informed about the sports world, I just made you wince.
Needless to say, I wasn't going to go to a country with this kind of knowledge. I needed to learn more, if only to be a respectful visitor. I didn't want to be one of those Americans who just rushed into a country. That isn't to say that you have to know everything about a country to be respectful of its culture. It's just to say that I didn't want to go in completely deaf and dumb.

Learning About New Zealand
So here's the deal. Even with this tool called the 'internet' and this haven of knowledge called 'Borders Books', I am still not doing much better than I did before. I have been searching for months, and am only adding to my knowledge bank day by day.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. I have to share this wickedly awful experience I had with one of the 'Culture Shock' books. If you haven't encountered this line of books before, it's a series of books that supposed to be written to introduce the average Joe (from all over the world, not just the US) to a country. For instance, I picked up 'Culture Shock New Zealand'. After reading the entire thing, I came out with some valuable knowledge.
1) I will not have servants when I go to New Zealand. Kiwis (as New Zealand people are called fondly) are all about the equalitarian society.
2) There are a lot of sheep. And cheese.
3) Kiwis. Love. Rugby.
4) Kiwis are very do-it-yourself.
5) The indigenious culture is the Maori, who came to the island by boat from somewhere out in the Pacific. The European-based population is primarily from Scotland, and dern proud of it.
And...that's pretty much it. Not very useful, all in all, for a student.
So I turned to the internet. Wikipedia was marginally helpful, clearing up some of the basic information. I found a livejournal community about New Zealand, and the people there were helpful in answering some of my questions...or rather, the five or so people who are in that community were helpful. I found for the most part that it's hard to find Kiwis on the internet. They just don't exist in the same cyber communities as I'm used to dwelling.
And I purchased two more helpful books to read on the plane.
But I still feel like I'm going in blind. Sure I may know that the Hokey Pokey icecream is something I need to try, or that there are only two species of poisonous spiders which constitute New Zealand's entire 'dangerous animal population', but what do I really know about the culture?
I think the difficulty is that there are so many characteristics that are shared between New Zealand and the United States, that it's going to be difficult from this distance to tell the difference. Once I get there, I'm sure I will be overwhelmed with the things that set the US apart from New Zealand, and vice versa. I surely know that I'm going to sound ridiculous.

Particularly if I don't sleep during the 24 hours I'm travelling.

Here's to seeing you on the flip side.

Wednesday, February 01, 2006

Begin Launch Sequence

So I've been asked to keep a blog of my study abroad excursion.
But I'm going to try to do more than that. My ambition is to keep a blog, vlog, and create a sort of hashed-out-comic about my study abroad experiences. Or, in other words, represent my experience both in a written ethnography, and two different kinds of visual ethnography.
I'll also be tossing the occasional newspaper article back to the school newspaper. All in the purpose of exploring different ways of recording information in an anthropological manner.

I truly like making more work for myself.